[Limited bandwidth telegraphic email update; full photo-riffic entries to follow in February sometime.]

At Grytviken this morning; would have been suitable for a whole day as a beautiful and historically interesting place with few irritable fur seals. This afternoon to a king penguin colony so huge and so densely populated that we stood on the outermost fringe, penguins for about a square mile. This evening short Zodiac ride to see macaroni penguins; there were only a few although they are said to be the most numerous penguins in South Georgia. Difficult to get to as they prefer rocky cliffs for nesting. Had hoped in fact to see miles of macaroni penguins also. Saw few chinstrap penguins too; much smaller than the others.

Sent many cards from South Georgia, next pickup listed as 'December'! Also bought things at shop benefiting S Georgia conservancy.

Tomorrow is day at sea; activities include "how to draw penguins." Trick is to get them to lie on a piece of paper in order to make an outline.